Flaws in the fabric – a ghost in the machine

Citation

Taylor, G. (2009), "Flaws in the fabric – a ghost in the machine", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 13 No. 4. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm.2009.28413daa.001

Flaws in the fabric – a ghost in the machine

Article Type: Guest editorial From: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Volume 13, Issue 4

Readers could be excused for asking, in the context of academic research, and in particular that of the JFMM special issue, exactly what constitutes the Asia-Pacific region. Further to this, if one proposes a paper for publication in such an issue, then where should the focus of the research topic lie?

Based on a geographic, political, economic or trade analysis, the Asia-Pacific region (APR) comprises more than 30 countries and territories, spanning alphabetically Australia and Vietnam. Perhaps more interestingly, 641 million of the world’s poorest people, or more than 60 per cent of the global total, live in the region[1]. This has consequences for economic progress, development strategies and assistance, and most importantly, for the maintenance of social stability if not achievement of those Millennium Goals.

From the labour perspective, it is evident that much of the anticipated change in the global, garment production map resulting from the new, world trade order and adjustments to sourcing policies has already taken place. The latest development, specifically the economic crisis[2] has affected all sectors and all societies, hence further interest in joint ventures and foreign, direct investment. Another outcome, and one which may remind the industry of a quick response strategy from a US perspective, if not one of development as such, may be the drift from heavy reliance on exports to more domestic manufacturing for the countries intent on “rebalancing” their priorities.

Responding to economic crisis or, as is more frequently the case, creating strategies that will promote a sustainable future, is not the usual task of the research worker. Reliance on national, regional or global directions is a given factor in academic research and, with particular reference to both industry and the fashion business, outreach to the various related partners may yield favourable results. In the region, several countries naturally stand out as being exemplary in terms of exports of garments or garment business, amongst them India, which has a continuing interest in supporting its clothing sector[3], and of course China, which has announced yet another five-year plan including steps to revitalise the industry[4] and, in the interim, attended to the shorter-term needs of enterprises affected by the economic downturn.

A number of common themes may be found in the national, regional and global strategies presented initially by governments, industry bodies, and think tanks, aiming to rationalize what is often referred to as a “fragmented” industry. It would be ideal, if somewhat disconcerting, if the process of rationalisation could be approved by both the developing, and the developed nations although frequently what benefits the latter may not be in the best interests of the former. As a case in point, a spokesman for the Australian textiles, clothing and footwear sector[5] chose to contrast China’s “low cost, commoditised” exports with those distinguished by innovation, supply chain management and ethical branding. Needless to say, China itself has limited interest in perpetuating the questionable cycle of commodity supply and has placed particular emphasis on innovativeness, effective management, ethics, and brand building. Parallels may be found in, for example, Europe, which intends to maintain competitive strength through these, and similar strategic measures designed to maintain the value-added element to which all manufacturers, exporters and brand owners owe their competitiveness.

In geographic, economic and developmental terms the question remains, how to contextualise an international industry, drawing parallels with global practice whilst emphasising regional or local distinctiveness? For research, the matter of innovativeness is largely taken for granted, as investigations and their subsequent reports require degrees of originality which mark them rather like flags along an interminable route from “less” to “more” understanding of phenomena. The issue was addressed, in management terms, by Meyer (2007), who reminded of context-specific theories influencing research validity or rather, research findings within the discipline. The pre-disposition of the researcher as well as the environment for the research design may, within his terms of reference, hold limited interest for fashion managers yet the point is made, where we start from (educational background) and how we develop our methodologies will effectively mould the outcome of our work.

According to the Hong Kong perspective, a variety of possible scenarios will play out in the garment making, marketing and exporting field that have consequences for both government planning and research. The matter of knowledge management – referred to both directly and indirectly in policy statements – has the territory set on a course for value added and the transformation of the economy and the society in terms of its workforce. Knowledge management is closely linked to innovative strategy and directly applicable to the fashion industry; nevertheless, influences such as social norms on creation, transmission, imitation, and relocation can yield more regional insights into the generation and transfer of both knowledge and innovation contextually[6].

Within the realm of retailing, and not necessarily too far from the domain of foreign direct investment it is evident that developments in internationalisation – effectively, how to establish a reputation and a brand – have given challenging research problems to the industry and academia for some decades. Doherty (2007) provides a cue to the research community in respect of franchise business and Ng (2006) reminds of the challenge of country and culture when, for example a country raises its original design profile. Design itself is a controversial research field which provokes debate on a range of issues, from suitability of methodology to the founding of creative clusters[7]. Returning to the issue of national and regional plans for the industry, much interest has been created in education and more specifically how to sharpen the competitive edge of the workforce to function well in that knowledge society. An excellent overview of the interplay between government, educational institution and industry expectations in the case of fashion design is supplied by Bill (2009), who ventured to analyse the role of creativity in the curricula offered in New Zealand.

Ideas from undergraduate and postgraduate students’ theses, reports by seasoned experts advising governments on future strategies, the problems expressed by industry representatives and the mind-mapped proposals or “wish lists” of targeted researchers helped to build the theme for the journals of this region, in addition to the publications assuming interest in the same. From the identification of “gaps” to the reinforcement or review of existing, strong fields of research there arose a mixed collection of papers which, although apparently neglecting to tap the source of recent economic woes effectively scoped the range of issues influencing fashion and textiles for this decade. From the seasoned researchers, newcomers to the academic world and practitioners in the industry, it would seem that consumer behaviour is of major interest; beyond the buying practice, it is evident that niche markets (recycled, for example) are commanding academics’ attention; as for “fast” or quicker replenishment models, the pull-push factor seems evident here, and the one representative manuscript offered on the subject presented the country of origin, rather than country of import perspective.

Perhaps the last point of importance to both publishing and research in the region is that of funding to make research possible, a topic to which most academics can relate and which industry may find harder, given the reduction in resources and absence of evidence of growth spurred by the all-important intellectual property. A decline in demand for definitive data, de-emphasis of the validity of projections and models, less sense of relevance in the boardrooms and lecture theatres when predictive materials are supplied and – worst case scenario in publication terms – lack of incentives to read printed articles may make the task of research much harder. Given the breadth and depth of research challenges still available at this time it may be of interest, vested of course, to conduct research in the field of research for the Asia-Pacific region and, along with the World Bank, United Nations, International Labour Organisation and affiliates, demonstrate that contextualised competitive edge.

The figure is cited in reference to the Millennium Development Goals – see “Asia-Pacific region will miss MDGs if ‘gaps’ are not filled immediately”, available at: www.ndgasiapacific.org/node/173

According to the ILO report on the economic crisis and its effect on the region, job losses have been particularly marked in the case of rural-to-urban migrants, women, and youths. The estimated number of losses for the region, with specific reference to 23 of the Asia Pacific nations, was 7.2 million for 2008-2009. See International Labour Organisation (2009).

The official site of the Indian Government restates the interest in the garment sector, with reference to its contribution to the economy and historic significance. A summary of the official position is supplied as follows: “Seeing employment and export potential in apparel and clothing sub-sector, the Government will give priority to ensure its development and expansion. Efforts will be made to reform rigid labour Laws, and Brand promotion through the Public Private Partnership route. Fashion hubs will be set-up to provide Common Data, and marketing outlets to the industry”. See http://india.gov.in/sectors/commerce/textiles.php (The National Portal of India)

The support plan of the China Government includes details – summarized in English at http://textile.2456.com/eng/feature/details.asp?fsid=3223 – for relief in both textiles and garment manufacturing with additional reference to both branding and management. Source: Chinese detailed plan directs textile industry in 2009 and 2011. Adsale industry portal 2456.com, posted 14 May 2009.

The summary of the review of Australia’s textile, clothing and footwear industry conducted by Professor Roy Green, and supported by an industry reference group appears in Manufacturers’ Monthly, online version, 24 November 2008 (available at: www.manmonthly.com.au/Article/Review-of-textile-clothing-and-footwear-industry/431881.aspx). The full review – “Building innovative capability” – can be seen online at the website of the Australian Government, Department of Innovation, Industry, Science and Research (available at: www.innovation.gov.au). It contains 15 recommendations for international competitiveness and emphasises innovation in the context of strategic change. See www.innovation.gov.au/tcfreview/Documents/401_TCFreviewvol1.pdf and www.innovation.gov.au/tcfreview/Documents/401TCFreviewreportvol2.pdf

The questions of research “gaps” are raised by Lu et al. (2008).

Keane (2009), for example, introduces some fascinating concepts of relevance to repositioning culture and the consequences for research.

Acknowledgements

“Flaws in the fabric” is a reference to fashion designer Rei Kawakubo’s expression of interest in the imperfections which could be introduced to a machine-made fabric, effectively differentiating it (and adding variety). Koestler’s Ghost in The Machine had a profound effect on both society and this writer in the 1960s, although today, after so much reporting on both technology and the all-important emotional quotient, it is difficult to remember precisely why.

Gail TaylorGuest Editor